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Le tourisme à l'ère de la décolonisation

(Un)Making Travel Narratives of Sri Lanka from Ceylon to the “New” Sri Lanka

Vichitra Godamunne

Abstracts

The British colonial imagination portrayed Sri Lanka (or Ceylon) through the themes of garden, paradise, and jungle. These themes have influenced travel narratives about Sri Lanka. Given the hierarchies of the global travel industry and the dominance of the “Western gaze,” countries of the Global South such as Sri Lanka exist in a narrative cycle where they have to create travel content that aligns with the “Western gaze.” However, Western travel narratives now exist alongside those created by Sri Lanka’s travel authorities and vloggers—through the “subaltern gaze.” My paper traces the colonial construction of “Ceylon” as a nation and its influence on the island’s depiction in travel narratives by analyzing the content of early travel films and photographs, modern videos, posters, and articles. I explore how contemporary travel imagery created by Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities and citizens is un-making the entrenched imagery of the island. And as Sri Lanka finds itself between national and geopolitical changes, the “subaltern gaze” will continue to redefine travel images.

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1Tourism imagery and narratives about destinations in the Global South are steeped in postcolonial binaries reinforced by the power imbalances within the global tourism industry. This paper explores how the construction of “Ceylon” by the British colonial imagination influences Sri Lanka’s portrayal as a travel destination, both past and present. Sri Lanka was a part of three European empires from the 16th century until independence in 1948—Portuguese, Dutch, and British. The most common themes of the island’s representation as a travel destination originated during the British Ceylon era. The British colonial authorities initiated economic and institutional changes that exist to this day (Meegama, 2019: 25). The Waste Lands Ordinance of the 1840s transferred lands in the central and southwest regions to coffee planters, creating seismic societal changes, including large-scale migration of people, abandonment of traditional paddy farming and arts, mass arrival of indentured immigrant labour, and growth of urban centres (ibid.: 26-41).

2Against such a socio-economic backdrop, the British colonial authorities and imagination cultivated an image of “Ceylon” distinct from India. Sri Lanka was a Crown colony from the beginning, unlike India. By the 1830s, Sri Lanka was separated from India due to the competition between the Crown colony and the East India Company (Sivasundaram, 2013: 14). This “separateness” or “partitioning” created an entirely new identity and narrative framing. The colonial imagination represented “Ceylon” as a romanticized garden paradise that was very different from India. This disconnect from India also enabled a “different laboratory for forms of state-making” and produced a “distinct idea of space” that eventually gave rise to modern Sri Lanka (ibid.: 14-16; see also Sivasundaram, 2011: 123-140).

3Because of this colonial construction of “Ceylon”, the oldest travel themes to originate about the island were those of the garden, paradise, and jungle. These themes existed within Orientalist binaries. Even though Sri Lanka was romanticized, there also existed a dark, mysterious core in representations. During the early part of the 20th century, Sri Lanka became a popular stopover route for travellers sailing from west to east. The colonial authorities established the island’s first Tourist Bureau in 1937 (Fernando et al., 2017: 253). According to Rapti Siriwardane-de Zoysa (2021: 77), many British and American production houses and cruise operators created travel imagery depicting Sri Lanka as “an islanded nodal tourist stopover en route to the Asia-Pacific, a fleck on the Indian Ocean where ‘summer never ends.’”

  • 1 After the establishment of the first Tourist Bureau, approximately 100,000 to 200,000 travellers vi (...)

4After 1948, Sri Lanka’s tourism industry was naturally influenced by its political and economic history. It has thus been uneven, fluctuating between eras of government support, economic protectionism, political instability, and violence.1 Sri Lanka’s first government established the Government Tourist Bureau under the Ministry of Commerce (Fernando et al., 2017: 253). With the introduction of economic protectionist policies of the 1950s and early 1960s, the tourism industry declined (ibid.: 253). In 1966, recognizing the economic value of tourism, the Sri Lankan government developed the first Ten-Year Master Plan for tourism and the island experienced its first tourism boom during the latter part of the 1960s and throughout the 1970s (ibid.: 255).

  • 2 Sri Lanka’s economy started rebounding in 2010 and so did the tourism industry, with tourist arriva (...)
  • 3 My focus in this paper is on English language travel accounts. The content I analyzed was produced (...)

5This tourism boom ended in 1983 with the onset of the civil war and further political instability during 1988 and 1989 (ibid.: 255). Romanticized ideas retreated to the background as Sri Lanka was associated with violence. In 2009, following the end of its civil war, Sri Lanka entered a new phase in its national narrative. The tourism boom and renewed interest in the island as a travel destination have been overwhelming.2 Contemporary travel accounts of the island generated by Western3 sources recycle colonial era tropes while citing the civil war and declaring Sri Lanka as a damaged paradise. The Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority (SLTDA) and Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau (SLTPB) market the country as being topographically and culturally versatile, with imagery focusing on the island’s ancient architecture and geography, and increasingly post-2009 as a lifestyle destination. The language and imagery employed by Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities too are a continuation of long-established travel themes first popularized by tour and cruise operators in the early 20th century to an extent.

6There are several reasons for the continuation of established colonial era travel themes and imagery by Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities. Tourism, from the representation of travel destinations to the right of mobility, is an unequal industry shaped by centuries of European colonialism and the Global North (overwhelmingly Western)-South divide. Globally, the ability and right to travel freely are the luxuries of citizens from wealthier societies in North America, Europe, and a handful of countries in the Asia Pacific region. Annual ranking lists such as the Henley Passport Index capture the inequalities of global mobility and how mobility depends on passport power (Henley & Partners, 2023). Furthermore, there is widespread consensus among economists and policymakers that tourism in countries of the Global South can function as a key driver of economic development, increase foreign currency inflows to countries, create employment opportunities, and result in multifold benefits (Sahli and Nowak, 2007; Samimi et al., 2011). Countries of the Global South such as Sri Lanka are hence caught in a narrative cycle, as they have to promote established colonial era travel imagery because of economic dependence on and the need for tourism revenue from the Global North.

7However, narrative construction is not the sole domain of the Global North or the “Western gaze” anymore. Post-2009, Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities have addressed negative stereotypes in their attempt to market Sri Lanka as an attractive destination by portraying an upwardly mobile and modern country. Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities are not simply replicating colonial era travel imagery, they are actively un-making certain negative tropes and promoting a new idea of Sri Lanka—i.e., the “new” Sri Lanka—to the world. Furthermore, many Sri Lanka vloggers are producing travel videos that showcase the country’s attractions. The result is the rise of narratives from Sri Lanka that compete with established Western travel imagery. In this paper, I will predominantly use Edward W. Said’s writings from Orientalism (2003) and Culture and Imperialism (1994), and Sujit Sivasundaram’s writings (2011; 2013) that explore the construction of Ceylon by the British colonial imagination to textually analyze the content of photographs, travel films, writings, music videos, and posters featuring Sri Lanka to trace the parallels between past and present. The “Western gaze” persists owing to its long history of cultural domination, but increasingly, the “subaltern gaze” is shaping narratives.

Orientalist Binaries and Representations of the “Other”

8Orientalism, the concept introduced by literary critic Edward Said, refers to the imaginary Western conceptions of the East or the “Orient” created by and for the West to justify the domination of the East; it underpins the power imbalance between the West and the rest of the world today, particularly the Global South (Said, 2003). This Palestinian American professor (ibid.: 41-46) describes orientalism as a form of “intellectual power” that compartmentalized the West and the East, giving rise to several Orientalist binaries. The “Orient” was backward, passive, eccentric, sensual, exotic, and suspicious; the West was advanced, active, rational, peaceful, and trustworthy (ibid.: 49). The “Orient” was always silent while the West projected power over it (ibid.: 94-95). Moreover (ibid.: 210-293), modern Orientalism has a “liberal veneer”; non-Western people (or the “Other”) cultures and economies are studied to understand them better, yet non-Western people can only represent themselves in a limited way. Today’s “diluted” Orientalism asserts that the West and the East are systematically different; the East cannot represent itself, so Western representations are inevitable; and fundamentally the East is either to be feared or controlled (ibid.: 300-301). In his book Culture and Imperialism, Said discusses the cultural interconnections between the East and the West. The old relationship between the colonizer and colonized now exists as the relationship between the Global North and South; representations of non-Westerners continue to exist within an imperial context (Said, 1994: 1-66).

9Scholars studying tourism marketing material have used Said’s work to critique the fundamental Orientalist and hierarchical nature of the modern global tourism industry. Compartmentalization of the non-Western “Other” and the West is the norm; the “Other” is passive while Western travellers and tour operators write the narratives for them. John Nightengale (2019) writes that representation of tourist destinations divides the world into the “consumerist West” and the “homogenized East,” with the world interpreted through the “Western gaze.” These representations reduce the host countries of the Global South to a series of repetitive images (ibid.). In their article “The Contradictory Politics of the Right to Travel,” Raoul V. Bianchi, Marcus L. Stephenson, and Kevin Hannam (2020: 292) explain that participating in tourism is “unevenly distributed, ambiguous and contested,” with border politicizations and racial profiling. Travellers from the Global North are “empowered tourists,” whereas travellers from the Global South are “disempowered Others” required to apply for tourist visas (ibid.). According to Cara Aitchison (2001: 135), people and places of the Global South exist as “pleasure products” for the consumption of tourists from the Global North. The tourism industry promotes “colonial consumption” that is reinforced through the language, images, and discourse of tourist brochures (ibid.: 140), while tourism marketing relies on the promotion of “difference” and the representation of the “desirable Other” for its very sustenance (ibid.: 139). Geographies and the hosts of the Global South are depicted as “pure and authentic” rather than ever evolving places (ibid.: 140). One study that examined tourism marketing material produced in North America identified three myths (Echtner and Prasad, 2003: 669). The first is that of the unchanged, where Global South countries always exist in the past—reduced to relics of old civilizations (ibid.: 669). The second is the myth of the unrestrained, usually applied to luxurious island getaways or “paradise” (ibid.: 672), and the third is the myth of the uncivilized, remote places encountering “primitive” cultures and people (ibid.: 675).

10Similar Orientalist binaries are present in travel representations of Sri Lanka. Western accounts about the country, both colonial and contemporary, acknowledge its topographic beauty while simultaneously highlighting the exotic, primitive, and dangerous. An aspect of the island always exists in the past (unchanged and stagnant) despite modern developments, and the country’s civil war is persistently mentioned in Western travel accounts of Sri Lanka. In the next section, I will explore the history behind the origins of the garden, paradise, and jungle themes, and how they became entrenched in the popular imagination through early travel films, photographs, posters, and music videos.

A Tropical Garden Paradise with a Dark Core

11The British found themselves in possession of the entire island following the defeat of the Kingdom of Kandy in 1815. Sivasundaram (2011: 123) believes that an “island’s distinctive boundaries between sea and land make it particularly prone to imagined escapisms and entrapments.” Islands have been metaphorically associated with ideas of Eden, utopia, arcadias, and prisons. Building a “little England” on an island was a particular preoccupation (ibid.: 123). Sivasundaram (ibid.: 130) writes: “political control and botanising went hand-in-hand,” adding that the colonial imagination depicted Sri Lanka’s low-lying coastal areas and inland hilly areas in different ways as they were topographically different (ibid.: 142). The coconut tree became a natural icon of the coastal areas; written accounts about Sri Lanka during these times expressed romantic and picturesque associations with the sighting of coconut trees (ibid.: 136-139). The inland areas, filled with hills and valleys, became the sites for establishing the ideal botanical garden and “little England” (ibid.: 129-140). Access to the Kingdom of Kandy, with its cooler climate, provided the British authorities with the opportunity to establish the botanical garden in Peradeniya. The Kandyan monarchies were prolific gardeners, and the imperial botanizing project was one which saw the appropriation of Kandyan knowledge about the natural environment (ibid.: 126-127). The hill station of Nuwara Eliya became the site of “little England” and the natural icon of the inland hilly areas of Sri Lanka. Its representation contrasted sharply with the representation of the tropicality of the coastal areas with coconut trees (ibid.: 139-140).

12Colombo, the commercial capital, was also represented as the “Garden City of the East”‘ from the beginning of the 20th century (Perera, 2008). Most notably, the Scottish Orientalist and town planner Patrick Geddes drew plans to preserve what he saw as the rural spirit of Sri Lanka within the city. He noted that people appreciated flowers and gardens and his city plan centred on creating an urban garden (Wahab-Salman, 2021). Thus, these are the beginnings of the depiction of Sri Lanka as a romanticized garden and a tropical paradise.

  • 4 The jungle theme is prevalent in literature and even in news coverage about Sri Lanka; Woolf’s clas (...)

13Author Leonard Woolf added another theme, that of the dark core—the jungle. Woolf’s time as a colonial administrator in southern Sri Lanka inspired The Village in the Jungle,4 first published in 1913. That novel narrates the lives of villagers beset by poverty and the dangers of the mysterious jungle. Woolf (2006: 5) writes:

The spirit of the jungle is in the village, and in the people who live in it. They are simple, sullen, silent men. In their faces you can see plainly the fear and hardship of their lives. They are very near to the animals which live in the jungle around them. They look at you with the melancholy and patient stupidity of the buffalo in their eyes, or the cunning of the jackal. And there is in them the blind anger of the jungle, the ferocity of the leopard and the sudden fury of the bear.

14In Woolf’s novel, the “jungle” is a metaphor for Sri Lanka and its inhabitants, a dark and dangerous land.

15The emergence of these defining themes that are associated with Sri Lanka as a travel destination also coincided with the rise of landscape photography. Orientalist ideas that originated in written accounts, paintings, and literature found new mediums with technological advancements. From the second half of the 19th century onward, there was photography; in the 20th century, it expanded to films. Early travel photography functioned as an important tool for imagining, visualizing, and presenting imperial ideas of non-Western lands (Ryan, 1997: 45-47). Commercial travel photographers (such as Samuel Bourne in Northern India and John Thomson in China) approached their photography expeditions with the zeal of explorers. These photographers wanted to capture previously unphotographed landscapes and deliver picturesque imagery. The works of Bourne and Thomson presented landscapes within the confines of the colonial imagination (ibid.: 49-70). For example, Bourne sought to recreate English scenery using Indian landscapes (ibid.: 50), whereas Thomson photographed infrastructure such as the Port of Shanghai to show the benefits of British civilization on the Chinese landscape (ibid.: 67).

  • 5 These early photographs are available on Lankapura, an online archive that features a substantial c (...)

16Photographs featuring Sri Lanka during the late 19th and early 20th centuries foreground landscapes filled with vegetation.5 Tea estates, hills, jungles, beaches, rivers, waterfalls, plants, elephants, temples, and the cities of Colombo and Kandy were recurrent subjects in these photographs (Lankapura, n.d.). These photographs frame both Colombo and Kandy as garden cities, with a substantial focus on vegetation. Similar to the works of Bourne and Thomson, early photographs from Sri Lanka capture a particular Orientalist idea of the picturesque: an exotic tropical island with lush vegetation.

  • 6 I discuss one travel film each from the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s that best showcase Orientalist bina (...)

17Thus, early photographs were among the first to introduce the topographic versatility and repetitive imagery that have become entrenched in the tourism marketing material of Sri Lanka. The idea of the exotic tropical island with lush vegetation became the main subject of travel films produced during the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s. Early travel films propagated the paradoxical themes of the tropical, romantic garden with beaches dotted with coconut trees that hide a dark, mysterious interior. The Song of Ceylon (Travel Film Archive, 2018),6 an award-winning documentary and travel film produced in 1934 for the Ceylon Tea Propaganda Board, begins with eerie background music. The narrator states: “In ancient times all the low parts of this land were covered in dark and monstrous forests from which no man may pass without peril,” highly reminiscent of the dark and mysterious mood of The Village in the Jungle. The camera pans on vegetation, Devil dancers, Kandyan dancers, tea estates, coconut trees, beaches, fishers, elephants, Buddhism, and train journeys to the interior hills while all the time foregrounding the poverty of the people (ibid.).

18Ceylon (Travel Film Archive, 2014), a Travelcade film produced in 1941, has whimsical background music in contrast to The Song of Ceylon. A substantial portion of the film is devoted to showcasing the Vedda community (in Sri Lanka), which the narrator describes as “the most mysterious people in all the races of man” and one of the “lost tribes of civilization.” This film portrays the Vedda community as childlike and primitive, mocking their bare bodies, yet despite this, they are “handsome and intelligent.” It highlights the modernity of Colombo, tea estates that are described as “forests of tea trees,” ancient architecture in Kandy, water buffaloes, and gem mining. The film ends with the sentence that Ceylon is “an island of untold riches and ancient kings, of scenic charm and a lost tribe of bronze Apollos who fight with wild beasts for control of the jungle” (ibid.).

19Flight to Ceylon (Periscope Film, 2021), by the American production company Dudley Pictures Corporation in the early 1950s, begins with the narrator describing Sri Lanka as a “fabulous isle” and a “land of paradise and paradox.” The camera lingers on scenes of elephants, snake charmers, trains, beaches, the architecture of ancient kingdoms, the Sigiriya rock, local handicrafts, tea estates, gem mining, rubber tapping, coconuts, and Kandyan dancers whose performance is described as “strange and primitive.” The film focuses on the contexts of paradise and paradox throughout its narrative. It describes Colombo as a progressive city, a place where “yesterday meets today.” But the narrator asserts that there is “always that other Ceylon, strange and mystic island of the past” (ibid.).

  • 7 Today there are travellers who visit Sri Lanka to experience a Duran Duran video for themselves. Wh (...)
  • 8 In Hungry Like the Wolf (Duran Duran, 2018), a band member goes in search of a woman living in the (...)

20When the Ceylon Tourism Board started producing travel posters in the 1960s, the now familiar images of ancient architecture, elephants, beaches, Kandyan dancers, and Galle Face Hotel became the subjects of these posters (Vintage Posters of Ceylon, 2011). Similar to the early travel films, these posters displayed the very “Otherness” and exoticism of Sri Lanka. Two decades later, in the early 1980s when tourist arrivals to Sri Lanka peaked before the start of the civil war, popular British band Duran Duran filmed three music videos in the country. In 1982,7 videos for Save a Prayer, Hungry Like the Wolf, and Lonely in Your Nightmare8 constitute an Orientalist display of Sri Lanka’s topography and culture. While all three are reminiscent of early travel films, Save a Prayer (Duran Duran, 2009a) in particular has the imagery of a travel video. There are stunning aerial shots of the Sigirya rock and stupas, along with visuals of architecture in Polonnaruwa, elephants in the jungle, beach sunsets, stilt fishers, and a token snake charmer placed in the corner of a hotel room.

21The following year saw the beginning of Sri Lanka’s civil war. Tourism arrivals were low and there was little interest in Sri Lanka as a travel destination during the next three decades (Fernando, 2016: 92). Tourist arrivals increased from 2002 to 2006 during the years of the ceasefire, though not significantly (ibid.: 91). A local advertising agency produced a travel video titled Small Island Big Trip (J Walter Thompson Sri Lanka Showreel, 2015) during that time of which topographic versatility and the natural beauty of the island were the focal points, as it entirely features aerial footage of beaches, hills, waterfalls, rivers, ancient architecture, and wildlife. However, with the start of the final stage of the civil war in 2006, Sri Lanka could not sustain tourist arrivals.

The “New” Sri Lanka

  • 9 Most notably, Sri Lanka was named in The Top 25 Islands in the World by Travel+Leisure (Ascher-Wals (...)

22The country that emerged after the civil war in 2009 had undergone many transformations in its politics, society, and economy. The tourism industry has been resilient despite the civil war and the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004 (Fernando, 2016; Fernando et al., 2017). After 2009, Sri Lanka experienced increased media attention as a desirable travel destination with publications such as Lonely Planet, Condé Nast Traveller, and Travel+Leisure frequently including the country in top travel destinations lists.9

23Western travel accounts have recycled repetitive imagery from the late 19th and early 20th centuries for the 21st century. There are some new images too—street cricket, kite flying in Colombo, the cuisine, divers at Galle Fort, and urban regeneration. The primitive, childlike natives of the past are today’s friendly and resilient people. A common thread in all these narratives is the persistence of the “dark core”—the civil war. Today’s Sri Lanka continues to be a garden, jungle, and paradise damaged.

24For example, the Australian television channel SBS Food produced a programme titled My Sri Lanka with Peter Kuruvita (Kuruvita, 2011) featuring a chef with Sri Lankan heritage. The programme promotes Sri Lanka as “a land of stunning tastes,” “a land of friends and laughter,” and “a land of magical memories” (ibid.). In “Sri Lanka: Island in the Storm,” an article published in The Guardian, Ruaridh Nicoll (2013) writes: “Of course, the country is so popular because on the surface it doesn’t feel as if it’s emerging from slaughter. Now, outside the car window, Sri Lanka seems like a garden gone mad.” In “A Voyage into Sri Lanka’s Forgotten Jungle Lands,” an article published in The Telegraph, Mike MacEacheran (2021) writes: “Sri Lanka has long been renowned for its hospitality, but there has been darkness to this lightness over the past few years.” Conflicting images of Colombo are also emerging. In Western travel accounts, Colombo is a mass of contradictions; it is a mess but there is regeneration. For example, John Gimlette’s travelogue Elephant Complex: Travels in Sri Lanka (2016) dwells on the chaotic nature of Colombo, stating that the metropolis belongs in Lewis Carroll’s novel Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. The Economist (2016) produced Discover Colombo: Travel in the Fastest-growing City in the World that foregrounds the cuisine, upscale restaurants, and a fashion show while stating: “A visit right now will reveal a place forging a new identity before your very eyes.”

25Sri Lankan produced tourism marketing material is an example of the country’s efforts to forge its new identity. Sri Lanka’s government and tourism authorities believe that tourism can play a role in economic development (Fernando et al., 2013). SLTDA launched Sri Lanka’s first global tourism marketing campaign with the tagline Sri Lanka, Wonder of Asia in 2011 (Fernando, 2016: 91). Marketing itself as the “Wonder of Asia” involved addressing negative perceptions, especially considering the contentious nature of the civil war’s end. Similar to Western travel accounts, Sri Lankan produced marketing material uses the old themes of garden, paradise (though not paradise damaged), and jungle, mixing old and new travel imagery. The first video produced under the tagline Sri Lanka, Wonder of Asia (Sri Lanka Tourism, 2012) largely focuses on topographic versatility, culture, civilization, and wildlife.

  • 10 According to a spokesperson from SLTPB, this new tagline and campaign were launched to attract incr (...)
  • 11 The British authorities banned Angampora in 1818; yet it prevailed over the centuries with Sri Lank (...)

26In the intervening years, Sri Lankan produced tourism marketing material has evolved to reflect the tourism industry’s priority—the need to attract higher spending tourists (Fernando et al., 2017). The authorities are increasingly introducing emerging themes and imagery. In 2018, Sri Lanka rebranded its marketing campaigns under the new tagline So Sri Lanka to highlight the particular “quirks” of travelling on the island and its diversity, from geography to culture and experiences.10 The video So Sri Lanka (Sri Lanka Tourism, 2018a) foregrounds thrilling experiences while adding some new imagery such as hot air ballooning and water sports. Sri Lankan Airlines’ promotional material mirrors those of the travel authorities. The video Taking our Proud Culture to New Heights (Sri Lankan Airlines, 2017) focuses on religious diversity, culture,11 and Angampora—Sri Lanka’s ancient martial form (Sri Lankan Airlines, 2017). Sri Lankan produced tourism marketing material increasingly promotes the theme of upward mobility. Both 60 Seconds Vacation (Sri Lanka Tourism, 2018b), produced by CNN in collaboration with SLTPB, and Sri Lanka Is Open (Sri Lanka Tourism, 2021) highlight Colombo’s cosmopolitan side. The jungle of old is also transformed. It is no longer the dark, dangerous, and mysterious place in Woolf’s novel. Today it is playful and adventurous as exemplified in the video Guides sauvages : Découvrez le Sri Lanka du point de vue d’un local (Sri Lanka Tourism, 2019), which foregrounds the jungle and its many animals.

  • 12 Sometimes, these videos reach a wider audience because they have a higher number of subscribers com (...)
  • 13 There are many travel vloggers in Sri Lanka. For practicality and feasibility, I analyzed content f (...)

27Numerous Sri Lankan travel vloggers provide a local’s perspective too. Social media enables host countries and tour operators alike to share a wider range of stories and experiences (Hančič et al., 2013: 17). Tourism marketing models have changed with the advent of social media and new forms of knowledge production (Zheng and Gerritsen, 2014: 32). Travel vloggers constitute an essential part of the new modes of knowledge production, influencing travel representations and traveller decisions. Social media channels, particularly YouTube, Instagram, and increasingly TikTok, are replete with an ever-growing number of Sri Lankans producing travel videos.12 Sri Lankan travel vlogging channels illustrate the topographic versatility of the country as the content creators take viewers on road trips around the island, provide background information about their chosen locations in some instances, and feature fashion shows, cricket matches, camping, Sri Lankan holiday celebrations, restaurants, shopping malls, and the Colombo Port City.13

28These travel vloggers market the sheer “ordinariness” of Sri Lanka and its people—rather than the “Otherness” that characterizes Western travel narratives of the country. Sri Lankan travel vloggers decentralize travel narratives and portray the country as it is. They do not necessarily foreground established travel imagery or consciously centre their content on the themes of garden, jungle, and paradise—rather, they provide personal anecdotes of their experiences and take viewers on less travelled paths. Studies on tourism marketing about destinations in the Global South explore how the “Othering” and exoticization are an intrinsic part of constructing “authenticity” about these destinations (Aitchison, 2001; Echtner and Prasad, 2003; Bandyopadhyay, 2009; Caton and Santos, 2009; Korpela, 2010). Travel vloggers of the Global South, however, now provide alternative constructions of “authenticity.” Competing narratives of Sri Lanka and “authenticity” are emerging. Entrenched narratives and constructions of “authenticity” produced by the “Western gaze” now exist with those produced by the “subaltern gaze” marketed to travellers of a new era.

  • 14 One of Spivak’s (1994: 90) discussion points in her essay Can the Subaltern Speak? is the existence (...)

29“Can the subaltern speak?” asked Gayatri Chakravorty Spivak in her important essay of the same title. She discussed how challenging it is for the subaltern to “speak”—communicate their perspectives and take control of their narratives when the dominant Western discourse misrepresents, distorts, obscures, or ignores subaltern narratives (Spivak, 1994: 84-104).14 However, the continued dominance of Western discourse is no longer guaranteed in a world that is in a state of flux, more so than at any other time in recent history. Structural changes of a different world order are unfolding. It is in such a world that the subaltern is attempting to reshape established tourism marketing narratives and even offer alternatives. Geopolitical shifts, along with economic and cultural developments—both those that have been developing over time and recent ones—demonstrate that the contemporary world is increasingly being shaped by developments in the Global South (Layne, 2012; Huang, 2016; Woetzel and Seong, 2019; Yendamuri and Ingilizian, 2019). While the global technology industry has all the characteristics of the North-South power divide, access to digital technologies in the Global South is improving (Bon et al., 2022). As demonstrated in this paper, contemporary tourism marketing initiatives in countries in the Global South such as Sri Lanka rely on digital technologies for promoting narratives produced through the “subaltern gaze.”

  • 15 On CNN’s Quest Means Business (2022), Sri Lanka’s tourism minister said that in the short term, tou (...)

30Tourism representations and priorities are subject to change in an era of evolving global power hierarchies. Old colonial ties are becoming weaker; new global powers such as China are rising and providing new economic development opportunities for countries in the Global South (Huang, 2016; Cai, 2017). Sri Lanka’s tourism source markets reflect these shifts. A majority of tourist arrivals to Sri Lanka were from Western Europe from the 1970s to the early 2000s (Fernando et al., 2017: 259-260). Changes started occurring in 2005 and onward, with a higher number of arrivals from India and China (ibid.; SLTDA, 2019). The latest data show that India and Russia are among the top source markets, whereas Saudi Arabia, China, Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Iran are considered top potential markets (SLTDA, 2022a). While Europe continues to be regarded as an important source market, there appears to be a gradual reorientation toward Asia.15 In this context, it is worth raising questions about how much longer Western audiences will remain a priority. Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities are now producing marketing material in languages such as Hindi, Mandarin, Russian, and Arabic. Sri Lankan travel vloggers do not create content for a Western audience either—but rather for everybody.

  • 16 There is no academic scholarship that studies the links between long-term economic policy failure a (...)
  • 17 During the months of the protests, Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities released one video—Let’s Keep th (...)
  • 18 Travel vloggers such as Sheneller, Where’s Lucie?, Steve Owens, Alive with Anshin, and True Budget (...)
  • 19 Despite the domestic turmoil, Sri Lanka occupied the 17th position from a list of 48 countries in C (...)

31Sri Lanka’s tourism industry is reorienting to Asia at a time of decisive geopolitical shifts and national developments. There were mass protests from early to mid-2022, primarily because of economic hardships resulting from decades-long policy failures (Gunawardena and Kadirgamar, 2021; Editors, 2022; Illanperuma, 2022).16 Once again, Sri Lanka enters an impasse that will have profound effects on its economy, political structures, and society. As images of shortages and queues dominated news coverage about Sri Lanka, official tourism marketing efforts visibly decreased during the early part of 2022.17 In contrast, travel vloggers produced videos about their experiences of visiting protest sites and urged travellers to visit the country.18 Although there has been a considerable decline in the number of tourist arrivals, travellers continue to visit the island (SLTDA, 2022b). Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities have resumed their marketing activities—however, they do not actively address negative perceptions created by recent media coverage (Sri Lanka Tourism, 2022). An industry that existed through political upheavals and natural disasters continues to persevere through an economic crisis.19

  • 20 In comparison, countries with political, economic, and/or cultural influence such as China and Sout (...)

32Sri Lanka is a country with negligible economic, political, or cultural influence. Furthermore, the economic structure of the country has not changed significantly since 1948 (Gunawardena and Kadirgamar, 2021; Illanperuma, 2022; Kariyawasam, 2022). Hence, it has many limitations when competing with the overwhelming force of Western narrative framings. The themes of garden, paradise, and jungle cannot be discarded entirely because they are deeply entrenched in travel narratives. Sri Lanka can, however, reinterpret these themes when it showcases a new idea of the island as a travel destination, addresses negative stereotypes, and adds to the repertoire of established travel imagery.20 In the context of tourism marketing, the structural changes unfolding in global power hierarchies provide opportunities for the subaltern to “speak” in some capacity and portray their narratives through the “subaltern gaze.” We cannot deduce Sri Lanka’s trajectory, even for the immediate future, given present national and global volatilities. Narratives have been imagined and re-imagined countless times; this will be the norm as the tourism industry responds to global events. Sri Lanka’s “subaltern gaze” will continue to redefine established travel imagery about the island as its national narrative evolves once more and enters a new geopolitical era.

Conclusion

33Europe dominated over 85% of land in the world at the height of European imperialism (Said, 1994: 6-8). The modern world, inheritor of colonial legacies, is one where power is concentrated in the Global North. This power imbalance determines mobility, passport politics, and the global tourism industry. Tourism marketing material lies within these intersections of politics, economy, and culture. This paper discussed how Orientalist representations of the past inform the representations of today by analyzing the content of tourism marketing material produced by both Western and Sri Lankan sources. The British colonial authorities’ need to study the natural environment of Sri Lanka and project political power over the island resulted in imagining the country in specific ways. The coastal areas became a romantic, coconut tree-filled paradise, whereas the internal hilly areas were depicted as a garden, while The Village in the Jungle added the idea of the dark, mysterious jungles of Sri Lanka to the popular (colonial) imagination. However, among the dominance of the “Western gaze” and what Said (2003) described as “diluted Orientalism,” there is a “subaltern gaze.” Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities and travel vloggers are actively rewriting narratives about the “new” Sri Lanka. The “subaltern gaze” showcases a country that has evolved. Geopolitical and economic changes define the contemporary world. Cultural products from many parts of the world—for example, India’s Bollywood, Nigeria’s and South Korea’s cultural industries, Turkey’s Dizi, Latin America’s Telenovelas, Chinese-owned social media platform TikTok to name a few—are also competing with Western cultural hegemony. As power imbalances influence tourism representations, these decisive changes are bound to influence emerging travel narratives just as colonial era Orientalism imagined the lands conquered through certain binaries. It is now nearly a hundred years since the creation of the first travel films about Sri Lanka, over fifty years since Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities realized the economic potential of tourism, and forty years since iconic music videos were filmed in the country. Orientalist images and themes of garden, paradise, and jungle continue to endure in various forms. Today, as the country lies on the cusp of further national and global transformation, these themes are Sri Lanka’s to adapt on its own terms to create new travel narratives.

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Notes

1 After the establishment of the first Tourist Bureau, approximately 100,000 to 200,000 travellers visited the island annually. The Tourist Bureau ceased operations in 1940 because of the Second World War. Following independence from British rule in 1948, former governors’ accommodations were converted to high-end hotels. From 1948 to 1953, income from tourism grew from $1.04 million to $2.23 million (Fernando et al., 2017: 253). Sri Lanka continued to attract tourists during the civil war, on a minuscule scale; tourism was concentrated in the southern parts of the country that were relatively stable compared to the northern and eastern parts of the island (ibid.: 257-258).

2 Sri Lanka’s economy started rebounding in 2010 and so did the tourism industry, with tourist arrivals overshadowing anything the country had experienced prior to 2009. From 2009 to 2015, tourist arrivals to Sri Lanka had an average annual growth rate of 26%, whereas in the past, even at its peak, the average annual growth rate was 23% (Fernando, 2016: 92). Sri Lanka did not have the infrastructure (i.e., hotel rooms) or an adequately trained workforce to support this boom initially (Fernando et al., 2017: 261). Room rates increased compared to neighbouring countries such as Thailand and Vietnam due to the high demand (ibid.: 262).

3 My focus in this paper is on English language travel accounts. The content I analyzed was produced in the US, the UK, Australia, and Sri Lanka.

4 The jungle theme is prevalent in literature and even in news coverage about Sri Lanka; Woolf’s classic novel The Village in the Jungle is the inspiration (Ranasinha, 2015). Early travel films, music videos, and contemporary videos all have some kind of reference to the jungle. Some travel websites even recommend that travellers read The Village in the Jungle before visiting Sri Lanka (Velarde, 2017; Intro Travel, 2020). Another well-known account of colonial Sri Lanka is An Historical Relation of Ceylon written by Robert Knox, a British sailor, and published in 1681. Knox was a prisoner in Sri Lanka during the time of King Rajasingha II. He documented everything he saw during his time in the country—the natural environment, people, animals, and customs. Yet, he did not explicitly mention the jungle in these accounts (Knox, 1981).

5 These early photographs are available on Lankapura, an online archive that features a substantial collection of vintage photographs from Sri Lanka: <https://lankapura.com/>.

6 I discuss one travel film each from the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s that best showcase Orientalist binaries in this paper. Other travel films such as Tropical Ceylon (Travel Film Archive, 2008) and Colombo, Ceylon (Travel Film Archive, 2017) are also worth watching to learn more about the portrayal of Sri Lanka during the early part of the 20th century.

7 Today there are travellers who visit Sri Lanka to experience a Duran Duran video for themselves. When conducting research for this paper, I found several personal blogs and articles where travellers have documented their visit to Sri Lanka and stated that Duran Duran’s music videos inspired them to visit the island. Some of these include “Following in the Footsteps of Duran Duran in Sri Lanka” (Weitz, 2013), “Save A Prayer till the Morning After – Travels in Sri Lanka” (Lowes, 2017), and “I Wanted to Live in a Duran Duran Video So I Went to Sri Lanka” (Bonner, 2015). Sri Lankan media website RoarMedia published an article titled “Duran Duran’s ‘Escape to Somewhere Foreign and Beautiful’” that concludes with this nostalgic sentence: “The beautiful cinematography combined with historical Sri Lankan cultural landmarks, showcases our country to the rest of the world in a way that hasn’t, or probably won’t be done, for a long time to come.” (Maligaspe, 2017)

8 In Hungry Like the Wolf (Duran Duran, 2018), a band member goes in search of a woman living in the jungle; the imagery focuses on mangroves and a very chaotic portrayal of Colombo. Lonely In Your Nightmare (Duran Duran, 2009b) foregrounds Kandyan dancers, drummers, and Taprobane Island.

9 Most notably, Sri Lanka was named in The Top 25 Islands in the World by Travel+Leisure (Ascher-Walsh, 2021), topped Best in Travel 2019 by Lonely Planet (Wilson, 2018), one of the best places to visit in 2020 by CNN (Hetter et al., 2020), and one of the best countries to travel to in Condé Nast Traveller 2021 Readers’ Choice Awards (Condé Nast Traveller, 2021).

10 According to a spokesperson from SLTPB, this new tagline and campaign were launched to attract increasingly digital native travellers (ET Brand Equity, 2018).

11 The British authorities banned Angampora in 1818; yet it prevailed over the centuries with Sri Lankans practicing and learning the martial art in secret (Joseph, 2019). For obvious reasons, early travel accounts of Sri Lanka do not feature Angampora. Today, this martial art is popular among younger generations of Sri Lankans because it has been popularized through the media and the rise of contemporary nationalism (Mudalige and Dewpura, 2021).

12 Sometimes, these videos reach a wider audience because they have a higher number of subscribers compared to the social media channels of Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities.

13 There are many travel vloggers in Sri Lanka. For practicality and feasibility, I analyzed content from the following YouTube channels: Sheneller, Travel with Wife, Kavithi, Travel with Heshitha, Baisikale, and Travel to Travel Sri Lanka.

14 One of Spivak’s (1994: 90) discussion points in her essay Can the Subaltern Speak? is the existence of the colonial “subject” or the subaltern under many stratifications. She explores the distorted discourse around sati (widow self-immolation) and the death of Bhuvaneswari Bhaduri. Spivak (ibid.: 96) writes that sati became an “ideological battleground.” In imperial British discourse, sati was a barbaric practice, and its banning was used to reinforce arguments that supported the colonization of India. Spivak (ibid.: 92-93) explains that it was a classic case of “white men saving brown women from brown men,” whereas a certain strand of Indian discourse framed sati as a virtuous act and the “women actually wanted to die.” According to Spivak (ibid.: 102), between these two discourses, the woman’s “voice” disappears: “Between patriarchy and imperialism, subject-constitution and object-formation, the figure of the woman disappears, not into a pristine nothingness, but into a violent shuttling which is the displaced figuration of the ‘third-world woman’ caught between tradition and modernization.” Sati was not a universal practice in India. It was common in Bengal during the 18th and 19th centuries—a part of the country where widows could inherit property according to Hindu law. This fact does not enter either discourse (ibid.: 96). Bhuvaneswari’s death by suicide in 1926 caused confusion as it did not conform with misconceptions about the reasons for suicide that existed at the time (such as an “illicit” romantic relationship or pregnancy). In reality, Bhuvaneswari belonged to an armed anti-colonial group and was tasked with a political assassination. The inability to do so led to her death (ibid.: 103). Bhuvaneswari, the subaltern female, was not “heard or read” (ibid.: 104).

15 On CNN’s Quest Means Business (2022), Sri Lanka’s tourism minister said that in the short term, tourism authorities will focus on attracting tourists from India and Bangladesh.

16 There is no academic scholarship that studies the links between long-term economic policy failure and the protests at the moment. In the absence of such material, I refer to media articles and commentaries that provide comprehensive accounts of economic failures and the nature of the protests.

17 During the months of the protests, Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities released one video—Let’s Keep the Sri Lankan Holiday Dream Alive for 2022 (Sri Lanka Tourism, 2022). In May 2022, an article in the Sunday Times newspaper stated that Sri Lanka had decreased marketing efforts (Dias, 2022). After a gap of four months, Sri Lanka’s tourism authorities started their marketing activities again, especially to target year-end holiday travel. There is also a sub-genre of travel videos on YouTube that explore visiting Sri Lanka during the economic crisis where foreign travellers vlog about their experiences and how they compare with the bleak media coverage.

18 Travel vloggers such as Sheneller, Where’s Lucie?, Steve Owens, Alive with Anshin, and True Budget Travelling featured footage from protest sites on the island.

19 Despite the domestic turmoil, Sri Lanka occupied the 17th position from a list of 48 countries in Condé Nast Traveller’s 2022 Readers’ Choice Awards (Condé Nast Traveller, 2022).

20 In comparison, countries with political, economic, and/or cultural influence such as China and South Korea have completely redefined their travel imagery—away from historical Orientalist tropes. Good examples include Beautiful China 2015 – Year of Silk Road Tourism (China National Tourism Office Toronto, 2015) and 2016 Korea Tourism Commercial (Imagine Your Korea, 2016).

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References

Electronic reference

Vichitra Godamunne, (Un)Making Travel Narratives of Sri Lanka from Ceylon to the “New” Sri Lanka Téoros [Online], 42-2 | 2023, Online since 07 November 2023, connection on 21 March 2025. URL: http://0-journals-openedition-org.catalogue.libraries.london.ac.uk/teoros/12003

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About the author

Vichitra Godamunne

Independent researcher, Marketing and Communications Consultant, Entgra, vichitra.ksg@gmail.com

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Copyright

CC-BY-NC-ND-4.0

The text only may be used under licence CC BY-NC-ND 4.0. All other elements (illustrations, imported files) are “All rights reserved”, unless otherwise stated.

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