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Before ‘Farm to Table’: Early Modern Foodways and Cultures. Entretien avec Amanda Herbert

Before ‘Farm to Table’: Early Modern Foodways and Cultures. Interview with Amanda Herbert
Before ‘Farm to Table’: Early Modern Foodways and Cultures. Entrevista con Amanda Herbert
Nahema Hanafi et Sophie Vasset
p. 109-113

Texte intégral

Nahema Hanafi and Sophie Vasset: What brought you to the history of food? What specific elements of your research path triggered such an interest?

  • 1 Amanda E. Herbert, Female Alliances : Gender, Identity, and Friendship in Early Modern Britain, Ne (...)
  • 2 “Before ‘Farm to Table’: Early Modern Foodways and Cultures”, Folger Shakespeare Library, https:// (...)

Amanda Herbert: I’m a historian of the early modern body: how it was imagined, what poisoned or nourished it, how it got sick or well, what it thought and felt. My past work has addressed constructions of gender and feeling (my first book, Female Alliances: Gender, Identity, and Friendship in Early Modern Britain,1 was on the histories of femininity and emotion); I’ve written on sexuality and queer theory; I’m finishing up a book on mineral spring spas as sites of early public health. Food studies has been incorporated into all of my work, from studying lower—and higher—status women laboring together in kitchens, to sourcing ingredients in medicines. When I started to work at the Folger, I was delighted in no small part because the library has the world’s largest collection of early modern manuscript recipe books in English. We built on those collection strengths in designing the Before “Farm to Table” project.2 

N. Hanafi and S. Vasset: One of the particular aspects of the project is that it goes beyond a classic interdisciplinary approach as it brings together scholars, and partners outside the academy such as librarians, digital humanities experts, or conservators. Could you tell us more about their involvement, the type of projects that you develop together, and the methodologies you are using?

A. Herbert: It is a truly unique project. We believe that the humanities matter to all people, and that our skills as humanists help us to communicate and collaborate with people from many different fields. Our team members study literature, religion, medicine, and history. We are curators and professors, scholars and administrators. But we are all humanists. We have worked closely with food professionals throughout the project: we joined forces with humanitarian and chef José Andrés and his ThinkFoodGroup team to design a menu for one of his restaurants that was inspired by four-hundred-year-old recipes in our collection.3 We have also had incredible partnerships with artists: we worked alongside Third Rail Projects,4 one of New York’s foremost companies creating site-specific, immersive, and experiential performance, to design a work of performance art called “Confection.”5 It was performed in the Folger’s historic reading rooms, and explored the culture of sugar, past and present: what happens when an entire nation becomes addicted to sugar? What were its physical pleasures and human costs?

N. Hanafi and S. Vasset: What type of sources do you use?

A. Herbert: Manuscript recipe books—often kept, added to, and edited over generations, passed down within families and friends—have been at the core of the project. But the Folger is a wonderful place to study food from many different perspectives: we’ve examined at ship cargo manifests to see what kinds of foods they’re carrying in their cargo holds. We’ve studied printed herbals, dietaries, and books of ecology. We’ve drawn upon legal treatises and proclamations about the price of bread, and have seen the punishments demanded of people who violated food law. We’ve looked at drawings of marketplaces and engravings of kitchens. We’ve read through religious treatises to see how they talk about transubstantiation and the host. And of course we’ve gone through lots and lots and lots of cookbooks. Food is everywhere, in nearly every historical source, if only you know where to look.

N. Hanafi and S. Vasset: Does the Folger have any sources in particular that triggered your initial interest in the history of food?

A. Herbert: Absolutely. Here are three examples:

1) Early modern Britons, rich and poor, ate a lot of fish: fresh, pickled, salted, smoked, and dried. Fish was at the center of British foodways: used to feed enslaved people, sustain colonizers, ration armies, and supply ships. In this manuscript, local officials respond to a petition from a group of impoverished fishermen, whose livelihoods—and indeed, survival—were threatened by oyster poachers from a neighboring county.

Fig. 1: Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham and Henry Brooke, Lord Cobham, Contemporary copies of letters to Peter Manwood, Commissioner of the Kent Oyster Fisheries, in a letter book relating to the oyster fishery at Whitstable, Kent, 1581–1669, March 19 and March 21, 1598/99

Fig. 1: Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham and Henry Brooke, Lord Cobham, Contemporary copies of letters to Peter Manwood, Commissioner of the Kent Oyster Fisheries, in a letter book relating to the oyster fishery at Whitstable, Kent, 1581–1669, March 19 and March 21, 1598/99

V.b.335, Folger Shakespeare Library

2) Britain’s most important edible colonial commodity was sugar. Harvesting, juicing, and refining sugar-cane was labor-intensive, and so the British slave trade was driven by its sugar trade. Britain fought bloody, destructive wars, enslaved hundreds of thousands of people, and utterly changed ecologies, all to satisfy its national sweet tooth. This is a book on candying, and each recipe inside of it calls for huge amounts of sugar. The white British women who used this book were complicit in the slave trade even as they occupied a subordinated place in British society.

Fig. 2: Anon., The True Way of Preserving & Candying, and Making Several Sorts of Sweet-Meats… (London, 1681)

Fig. 2: Anon., The True Way of Preserving & Candying, and Making Several Sorts of Sweet-Meats… (London, 1681)

T3126A, Folger Shakespeare Library

3) London’s markets offered British staples as well as foods, spices, and sauces from around the world. But long hours and harsh working conditions kept most of the women, men, and even children who sold these edible commodities in a state of want, if not in outright poverty. This is a hand-drawn sketch of Billingsgate fish market in London, depicting ships ready for oceanic trade. This sketch was prepared by a man who wanted to punish unlicensed merchants and street criers.

Fig. 3: Hugh Alley, A caveatt for the citty of London, or, A forewarninge of offences against penall lawes (1598)

Fig. 3: Hugh Alley, A caveatt for the citty of London, or, A forewarninge of offences against penall lawes (1598)

V.a.318, Folger Shakespeare Library

N. Hanafi and S. Vasset: Surely your calendar has been delayed with all the COVID restrictions, but what could you tell us a little more about what has already been implemented in the project? Are the results going to be accessible online?

A. Herbert: There is a full list of the events we’ve undertaken here—as you can see, we’ve done a lot! We’ve taught courses, curated exhibitions, built a corpus of reading copies of manuscript recipe books, organized conferences, given lectures, analysed food and film. We’re currently developing a website which will allow people to learn about our projects, what we accomplished, and how the project continues to evolve. It should be available sometime in 2021. And we are continuing our activities despite the pandemic. At the start of October we’re co-sponsoring a conference with the Newberry Library in Chicago, called “Food and the Book”,6 which will be held virtually over the course of two weeks. It’s free and open to the public, with special appearances by celebrity chefs and food-writers like Michael Twitty, Sean Sherman, and Tamar E. Adler.7 I can’t wait. It will be fabulous.

N. Hanafi and S. Vasset: What are the main themes of the project, and how does it fit into the current historiography of food, and how does it offer to renew approaches in food history?

A. Herbert: The premise of the project is that food, then as now, is a basic human need. It also has a history and is a gateway to understanding different societies and cultures. We’ve investigated big questions about the way food participates in and actively shapes human knowledge, ethics, and imagination. These include things like the unevenness of food supply, the development and spread of “tastes,” the recovery of the experiences of enslaved foodworkers, the socially cohesive rituals of eating together. Our hope has been that a fresh understanding of a pre-industrial food world will give us purchase on the post-industrial assumptions, aspirations, and challenges surrounding modern foodways.

N. Hanafi and S. Vasset: What are the correlations drawn in the project between food and medicine? What are the preferred source for the study of food and medicine? Are you working with the recipes project? What are new directions taken by the project?

  • 8 The Recipes Project: Food, Magic, Art, Science, and Medicine, https://recipes.hypotheses.org/ (202 (...)
  • 9 “#WoolleyWeek: New Discoveries in the Life and Work of a 17th-century”, Facebook Live, 21st May 20 (...)

A. Herbert: Two of our postdoctoral fellows, Michael Walkden and Neha Vermani, are historians of medicine, and they have helped us to see all of these connections! Early modern people believed that what you consumed – whether you took it as a medicine or enjoyed it as a meal—influenced the way that your body functioned. The early modern worlds of food and medicine are inextricable. And yes, as one of the co-editors of The Recipes Project,8 I am always on the lookout for ways that the projects can inform each other. One of these events was “Woolley Week”: a week of online programming dedicated to Hannah Woolley, the first woman to publish a cookbook in English. We live-tweeted a visit to the Folger Conservation Lab, held a transcribathon, and hosted a live chat on the Recipe Project’s Facebook page.9 

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Notes

1 Amanda E. Herbert, Female Alliances : Gender, Identity, and Friendship in Early Modern Britain, New Haven, Yale University Press, 2014.

2 “Before ‘Farm to Table’: Early Modern Foodways and Cultures”, Folger Shakespeare Library, https://www.folger.edu/before-farm-to-table-early-modern-foodways-cultures (2021/04/29).

3 ThinkFoodGroup: Changing The World Through The Power of Food, https://thinkfoodgroup.com/ (2021/04/29).

4 Third Rail Projects, https://thirdrailprojects.com/ (2021/04/29).

5 “Confection”, Third Rail Projects, https://thirdrailprojects.com/confection#confection-page (2021/04/29).

6 “Food and the Book: 1300-1800”, Newberry, https://www.newberry.org/10022020-food-and-book-1300-1800?bblinkid=243380437&bbemailid=24516744&bbejrid=1659000956 (2021/04/29).

7 See https://afroculinaria.com/about/, https://sioux-chef.com/about/ and http://www.tamareadler.com/.

8 The Recipes Project: Food, Magic, Art, Science, and Medicine, https://recipes.hypotheses.org/ (2021/04/29).

9 “#WoolleyWeek: New Discoveries in the Life and Work of a 17th-century”, Facebook Live, 21st May 2019, https://www.facebook.com/155963967934095/videos/441184333363060 (2021/04/29).

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Table des illustrations

Titre Fig. 1: Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham and Henry Brooke, Lord Cobham, Contemporary copies of letters to Peter Manwood, Commissioner of the Kent Oyster Fisheries, in a letter book relating to the oyster fishery at Whitstable, Kent, 1581–1669, March 19 and March 21, 1598/99
Crédits V.b.335, Folger Shakespeare Library
URL http://0-journals-openedition-org.catalogue.libraries.london.ac.uk/hms/docannexe/image/4004/img-1.png
Fichier image/png, 781k
Titre Fig. 2: Anon., The True Way of Preserving & Candying, and Making Several Sorts of Sweet-Meats… (London, 1681)
Crédits T3126A, Folger Shakespeare Library
URL http://0-journals-openedition-org.catalogue.libraries.london.ac.uk/hms/docannexe/image/4004/img-2.png
Fichier image/png, 514k
Titre Fig. 3: Hugh Alley, A caveatt for the citty of London, or, A forewarninge of offences against penall lawes (1598)
Crédits V.a.318, Folger Shakespeare Library
URL http://0-journals-openedition-org.catalogue.libraries.london.ac.uk/hms/docannexe/image/4004/img-3.png
Fichier image/png, 906k
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Nahema Hanafi et Sophie Vasset, « Before ‘Farm to Table’: Early Modern Foodways and Cultures. Entretien avec Amanda Herbert »Histoire, médecine et santé, 17 | 2021, 109-113.

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Nahema Hanafi et Sophie Vasset, « Before ‘Farm to Table’: Early Modern Foodways and Cultures. Entretien avec Amanda Herbert »Histoire, médecine et santé [En ligne], 17 | été 2020, mis en ligne le 28 juillet 2021, consulté le 15 janvier 2025. URL : http://0-journals-openedition-org.catalogue.libraries.london.ac.uk/hms/4004 ; DOI : https://0-doi-org.catalogue.libraries.london.ac.uk/10.4000/hms.4004

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Auteurs

Nahema Hanafi

TEMOS (UMR 9016), Université d’Angers

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Sophie Vasset

LARCA (UMR 8225), Université de Paris

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